To connect a relay to a switch, wire the switch to control the relay's low-current coil (Terminals 85 and 86), while the high-current load passes through the relay's internal switch contacts (Terminals 30, 87, and 87a). This configuration allows a low-amperage switch (handling roughly 150mA) to safely control a high-amperage load (like a 20A light bar, winch, or shed fan) without melting the switch contacts or requiring heavy-gauge wire to run to the dashboard.
Below is a complete walkthrough of a standard 12V DC 5-pin SPDT (Single Pole, Double Throw) micro relay—often referred to as a Bosch-style relay. We will trace the circuit from the power source to the load, map the physical terminals to their schematic symbols, and verify the build with a multimeter.
Terminal Mapping and Diagram Symbols
Automotive and DC micro relays follow the DIN 72552 standard for terminal numbering. Understanding which pin does what is critical before you strip a single wire. Here is the exact pinout for a standard 5-pin 12V DC relay (e.g., Bosch 0332014150 or equivalent JD193).
| Terminal | Function | Circuit Role | Recommended Wire (20A Load) | Schematic Symbol |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 30 | Common (COM) | Main power input to the internal switch | 10 AWG or 12 AWG | Center pivot point of the switch blade |
| 85 | Coil (-) | Ground/Return for the electromagnet coil | 18 AWG or 16 AWG | One end of the coil rectangle/loops |
| 86 | Coil (+) | Switched 12V input to energize the coil | 18 AWG or 16 AWG | Other end of the coil rectangle/loops |
| 87 | Normally Open (NO) | Load output (powers on when coil energizes) | 10 AWG or 12 AWG | Top switch contact (open in resting state) |
| 87a | Normally Closed (NC) | Load output (powers on when coil is OFF) | 10 AWG or 12 AWG | Bottom switch contact (closed in resting state) |
Reading the Schematic Symbols
On a wiring diagram, the relay is split into two distinct symbols to represent its two isolated circuits. The coil is drawn as a rectangle or a series of loops, representing the copper winding that creates the magnetic field. The contacts are drawn as a standard SPDT mechanical switch. A dashed or dotted line connects the coil to the switch blade, indicating that the coil's magnetic field actuates the blade. When reading the diagram, remember that the coil circuit and the contact circuit share no direct electrical connection—they are isolated by air and plastic.
Node-by-Node Wiring Trace (Source to Load)
Let's trace a complete circuit powering a 20A 12V DC shed ventilation fan. The control circuit (coil) uses 18 AWG wire, while the load circuit (contacts) uses 10 AWG wire to minimize voltage drop and handle the current safely. Always use heat-shrink ring and spade terminals; avoid bare crimps which corrode and cause high-resistance failures.
- Power Source to Switch (Control Circuit): Run an 18 AWG wire from the 12V battery positive terminal to a 2A inline fuse holder, then to the input terminal of your dashboard toggle switch.
- Switch to Relay Coil: Run an 18 AWG wire from the switch output to Terminal 86 on the relay. When you flip the switch, 12V reaches the coil.
- Coil Ground Path: Run an 18 AWG wire from Terminal 85 to a clean, bare-metal chassis ground or directly to the battery negative terminal. This completes the control circuit, allowing ~160mA to flow through the coil and generate a magnetic field.
- Main Power to Relay Contacts (Load Circuit): Run a heavy 10 AWG wire from the battery positive terminal to a 25A main fuse, then to Terminal 30. This terminal is now 'hot' at all times, waiting for the internal switch to close.
- Relay to Load: Run a 10 AWG wire from Terminal 87 (Normally Open) to the positive input of your 20A ventilation fan. When the coil energizes, the internal blade snaps from 87a to 87, sending battery voltage to the fan.
- Load Ground: Run a 10 AWG wire from the fan's negative terminal to the chassis ground or battery negative. The ground path must be equal in gauge to the positive supply to prevent voltage starvation.
Verifying Your Connections with a Multimeter
Before applying main power to the load, use a digital multimeter (DMM) to verify the physical device and your wiring. This prevents dead shorts and melted harnesses. For deeper diagnostic methodologies, refer to standard relay diagnostic procedures.
1. Coil Continuity Test (Bench Test)
Set your DMM to Ohms (Ω). Place the probes on Terminals 85 and 86. You should read between 70Ω and 90Ω (typically ~75Ω for a 12V coil). If you read 'OL' (Open Line), the internal coil wire is broken. If you read near 0Ω, the coil is shorted internally.
2. Contact Switching Test (Bench Test)
Set your DMM to Continuity (the beep mode).
Place probes on 30 and 87a: The meter should beep (Normally Closed).
Place probes on 30 and 87: The meter should read 'OL' (Normally Open).
Now, apply 12V across 85 and 86 using a spare battery or bench supply. You will hear an audible 'click'. Re-test the contacts: 30-to-87 should now beep, and 30-to-87a should read 'OL'.
3. Voltage Drop Test (Under Load)
Once wired and powering the load, set the DMM to DC Volts. Place the red probe on Terminal 30 and the black probe on Terminal 87 while the fan is running. You should read less than 0.1V to 0.2V. If you read 1V or higher, the internal relay contacts are pitted or failing, or your wire crimps are loose, creating dangerous heat.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a standard wall light switch to trigger a 120V AC relay coil?
Yes, but the relay must be specifically rated for AC coil operation (like an Omron MY2N or Schneider 8501 'ice cube' relay). A 12V DC micro relay will instantly burn out its coil if connected to 120V AC. When wiring a 120V AC relay, the wall switch controls the AC line voltage to the coil (often terminals A1 and A2 on AC relays), while the relay contacts switch the high-current AC load. Always de-energize the breaker and verify dead with a non-contact voltage tester before working with mains AC wiring.
Why does my switch spark or melt when connected directly to the load?
Standard automotive toggle switches or dashboard rockers are typically rated for 10A to 15A continuous. If you wire a 20A light bar directly through the switch, the internal copper contacts will overheat, oxidize, increase in resistance, and eventually melt the plastic housing. By using a relay, the switch only carries the ~160mA (0.16A) required to energize the coil, keeping the switch completely cool while the heavy current flows through the relay's robust internal contacts.
Do I need a flyback diode when connecting a relay to a solid-state switch?
Yes. If you are triggering the relay coil using a transistor, MOSFET, or an ECU/Arduino GPIO pin (rather than a simple mechanical toggle switch), you must install a flyback diode (like a 1N4007) across the coil terminals (cathode/stripe to positive, anode to ground). When the coil de-energizes, the collapsing magnetic field generates a high-voltage reverse spike (inductive kickback) that can instantly destroy solid-state components. If your relay already has an internal diode, an external one is not required.
What happens if I wire the load to Terminal 87a instead of 87?
If you wire your load to Terminal 87a (Normally Closed), the logic of the circuit is inverted. The load will receive power and turn ON as soon as the battery is connected, and it will turn OFF when you flip the dashboard switch to energize the coil. This is useful for safety interlocks (e.g., a kill switch that cuts power to a fuel pump when activated), but for standard accessories like lights or fans, you should always use Terminal 87 (Normally Open).






